I'm running out of interesting things to say. This isn't really life in the fast lane any more than it was in Pittsburgh...
But I've gotten some questions about the dress code, so I guess I'll offer my description.
The general rule I've heard is, cover the shoulders and knees, men and women alike. Westerners (and others) wear western dress - I basically live in a variety of t-shirts and I rotate through two pairs of capri pants, two long linen skirts, and two sarongs. Some women like to wear those comfy cami tops with thin straps; in public they add a bolero-type sweater or a large wrap scarf to cover the shoulders. Western men wear pants or long shorts that cover the knees. Now, I've seen women at the mall wearing midriff-exposing tank tops and mini skirts (and that was even during Ramadan!), but that's pretty uncommon. I suspect they get helpful advice from their fellow mall-goers: people here will certainly let you know when you're out of line. It's not threatening, but the message is clear.
The rules are much looser inside our compound - we kind of treat the compound as an extension of our homes. It's not a huge place but you can wear shorts to walk around the block and on the tennis courts. Also, Ramadan restrictions seem to be lifted inside the compound - I've seen snacks and water at the pool. Incidentally, pool and beach attire is the same as at home.
There's a completely different set of rules for Muslims. Arab women and men mostly wear traditional dress - that's the black abayas for women and the white head scarf and thobe for men. Once you get used to the abayas you can see that there's a wide variation in style. Some women just wear a head scarf to cover the hair and a robe to cover the arms and legs, while some cover every possible inch - full length robe, lightweight gloves, and the face completely covered (including eyes) with a veil. I have to remind myself that I don't really know anything about the woman underneath the veil, except that she is a devout Muslim with a strict interpretation of appropriate dress. Sometimes her voice is surprisingly young, cheerful, and western. Honestly, at first I just ignored women whose face I couldn't see - I didn't know what to say. Now I'm getting better at the normal polite exchanges (excuse me, sorry, thank you). Still, I feel like I aim my communications vaguely at the head but slightly off target. I've got a way to go.
These coverings can come off when the women are in an environment where they are certain they will not be seen by men outside their immediate family.
There are ways for women to make a fashion statement. Accessories are important - handbags and jewelry, obviously, are a great way to stand out. You see some Sex in the City type purses that are I'm sure at the height of fashion although I am completely unfamiliar with the medium. The abayas also have a lot of variance in details like the type of fabric and ornamentation. Some are really beautiful, with a lovely drape and intricate embroidery along the edges. Now, that's an abaya I'd like to take home. I suspect the nice ones are very expensive. Just look at the cars these ladies get in.
Mens' thobes offer less opportunity for stating personal style and income. The style is dictated by country of origin. Those who know can tell a man's native land by the existence of a collar, pleats, buttons, and cuffs on his thobe, and the presence of a black or red patten on his head scarf. That leaves the quality of the fabric and jewelery (cuff links, rings) for individualization. And his face. Don't forget that.
That's my summary of high fashion in the Gulf. Maybe I'll get the courage to take some photos at the mall (I understand that folks may or may not want their pictures taken). Remember that I am not a particularly interested observer of fashion; my main goal is comfort, both physical and cultural. I just want my dress to be basically appropriate. Beyond that is really beyond me.
